Despite weather-related challenges, powerful reds and fruity whites
The 2023 vintage in South Tyrol seems to confirm a wine-related adage: years with great challenges produce great wines. While the year was more than demanding in the vineyard, cellar masters expect strong, color-intensive red wines with good fruit across all grape varieties and, compared to recent years, fresher, fruitier white wines.
The weather was not always kind to South Tyrolean winegrowers last year: dry first months, a cool, wet spring, heat in midsummer, and damp weather at the start of the harvest. "It was a year of enormous effort for the farmers," says Gerhard Kofler, cellar master at the Girlan Winery. Precipitation at unfavorable times and strong growth demanded everything from the farmers, and the grapes had to be carefully sorted. "However, South Tyrolean winegrowers have a lot of experience with adverse conditions, they know what to do, and they bring the necessary diligence to the task," says Kofler. "That's why the differences in quality are particularly evident in years like this."
Stephan Filippi, cellar master at the Bolzano Winery and president of Assoenologi in South Tyrol, attributes the fact that a good result was achieved despite all the challenges in the vineyard to a specific South Tyrolean characteristic. "We have the advantage that our farmers have developed a passion for wine and work accordingly," says Filippi, who also points to a well-functioning network of organizations that provide advice and support to farmers. In terms of weather, however, Filippi also highlights a positive factor for the 2023 vintage. "The unusually high temperatures after the start of the harvest were an absolute stroke of luck, especially for later-ripening varieties and locations," says the Bolzano cellar master. "They had a positive effect on the harvest, and the quality improved even further because the grapes could be harvested when fully ripe." This was particularly reflected in the South Tyrolean red wines of the 2023 vintage: powerful, intensely colored, with good fruit and fully ripe tannins. "For red wines, 2023 is a great vintage with very elegant wines," says Filippi. Experts also expect an interesting vintage for white wines. "They are characterized above all by their intense fruitiness," explains the Bolzano cellar master. And his Girlan counterpart adds: "The white wines are beautifully fresh and elegant, which makes them even more enjoyable to drink."
Lagrein, Vernatsch, Pinot Noir & Co. Among the red wines, Stephan Filippi particularly highlights Lagrein. He is looking forward to "one of the really great vintages," says the cellar master, who attributes this to very ripe grapes. "They ensure fine, round tannins," says Filippi. The same applies to Cabernet and Merlot, and Pinot Noir is also developing well. Gerhard Kofler confirms this: "The Pinot Noir of the 2023 vintage is not quite as strong as last year's, but it is characterized by a lot of fruit and elegance and a little less alcohol."
Experts also expect a very good vintage for Vernatsch – in Filippi's case, St. Magdalener. The warm autumn also contributed to this. "It allowed the berries to dry out slightly, making them smaller and more concentrated, giving the wine more fruit and color," says Filippi, who recently bottled the first St. Magdalener wines of the 2023 vintage at the Bolzano winery.
Winners and tests of patience
The two cellar masters explain that fruitiness is at the forefront of the 2023 white wines. Especially after a hot and therefore heavier 2022 vintage , consumers can look forward to lighter, fresher wines again. The Sauvignon has a slightly fresher style, while the Pinot Blanc is developing very well. "For the Gewürztraminer, on the other hand, 2023 was a year that required patience," explains Gerhard Kofler. The grapes took a long time to reach the right level of ripeness. In general, the Gewürztraminer vintage is somewhat lighter, "but where the vines and yields were right, grapes were harvested for fruity, elegant wines," says Kofler. In other words, it confirms Chardonnay as one of the most interesting white grape varieties in South Tyrol, Filippi and Kofler agree. According to Kofler, Chardonnay proves to be resistant to heat, retains its acidity better in hot years, and is hardly affected by rot, which in turn means that even in a wet autumn, the grapes can be left on the vine for a long time and thus allowed to ripen fully.
And the conclusion?
Although 2023 presented farmers with no shortage of challenges in the vineyard, it is a great vintage. This is especially true for varieties and sites that ripen later in the fall. "Very low-lying, warm sites were at a disadvantage last year because the harvest—especially that of the white varieties—fell at a time when it was too warm and too humid," the two experts explain. In higher locations, on the other hand, the grapes were able to benefit from the subsequent sunny and warm days and cool nights. The year 2023 thus also reflects developments in the wake of climate change. "All in all, the 2023 vintage has produced very authentic wines that promise drinking pleasure and can also be long-lasting," says Stephan Filippi. For Gerhard Kofler, the 2023 vintage could even come close to the great vintages of 2016 and 2019. And compared to last year, he says: "The 2023 vintage is angular, edgy, and therefore exciting."