Which wine with which dish? There are hardly any other questions that can make hosts as nervous as the one about wine pairing, even though Lukas Gerges says, “No one should take the whole thing too seriously, and don’t let it drive you crazy. If you start with a good wine, it’s hard to go wrong.” And Gerges should know: he is a trained graduate in oenology and Alto Adige’s Host and Sommelier of the Year in the French guide Gault&Millau.

As a native of the cooler climate of East Tyrol, Austria, Lukas Gerges did not exactly grow up surrounded by vineyards. But nevertheless, he has made wine his profession. He is head sommelier at Norbert Niederkofler’s Atelier Moessmer in Brunico. “His knowledge and linguistic talent seem to be unlimited,” says Gault&Millau, calling Gerges a “great wine authority”. In short: he is the right person to ask when it comes to a short wine guide, and thus to find out everything that your average wine enthusiast needs to know about the question of which wine matches which dish.

Mr. Gerges, combining wine and food means solving a chicken-and-egg problem. Is the wine matched to the dish or the dish to the wine?
Lukas Gerges: Above all else, it depends on the guests or the occasion. If a group of wine geeks come to visit, the food almost doesn’t matter. (He laughs.) Otherwise, with “normal” people, it’s more likely that the wine will be chosen to go with the food.

In your restaurant, there is quite an extensive wine cellar. How does one manage with a small selection at home? When it comes to wine pairing, are there certain wines that just work all around?
Gerges: For me, it’s sparkling wine, Riesling, and Pinot Noir. A sparkling wine can actually accompany an entire menu. A crisp Riesling also goes well with almost everything: with fresh dishes, but also with strong or fatty food as a contrast that refreshes and cleanses the palate. Pinot Noir can be paired with meats from pork to beef, and when lightly chilled it can also go with appetizers, fish, and often even with desserts if what is in play is chocolate or red fruits but in any case not too sweet. By the way, Pinot Blanc is also a great little all-around wine, so it’s a good idea to just keep a bottle ready in the fridge.

With the question “Which wine goes with which food?”, is it possible to think in categories? Such as which wine goes with fish, or which wine goes with meat? And which wine works as an aperitif?
Gerges: There are of course the standards, so you can hardly go wrong with a sparkling wine as an aperitif, a white wine with fish, and a red wine with meat. But these days, the rules are also often broken. For example, a chilled Schiava [Vernatsch] with fish, or a strong white wine matured in wood can often be more exciting with a white meat such as veal. And a concentrated dessert wine can go better with a blue cheese than with a dessert.

So the time has come to call into question some of the established wisdom about wine and food if you are recommending red wine with fish and sparkling wine with a whole meal...
Gerges: As I already mentioned, a chilled red wine can go very well with fish, you just have to pay attention to the tannins. Too much tannin rarely works with fish – so it’s better not to pair a Lagrein with trout, for example. With shellfish, I stick to white wine. Or sparkling wine, which can accomplish far more than just being served as an aperitif. We have many guests who drink a bottle of sparkling wine with the whole meal. With its tight acidity, it refreshes, cleanses the palate, and makes you want more.

So is it okay to experiment? It being understood that we are remaining within the range of Alto Adige DOC wines...
Gerges: Of course! I am in any case different in that regard. For me, the wine is there to have fun and not to be so set about always searching for the perfect pairing. I’d rather drink a wine that I really like but that doesn’t go perfectly with food than have a perfect pairing but then spend the entire evening drinking a wine that bores me.

Since summer is just around the corner, what answer does the professional provide to all those barbecue enthusiasts with the question of which wine goes with grilled meats?
Gerges: The focus here is on the social element. It’s about having fun. Opening up a great wine is consequently nonsensical. What is needed are cool wines that freshen things up: fresh, crisp white wines or elegant reds such as a Schiava or Pinot Noir, which you can also put on ice. Or even a juicy rosé.

Allow us to take another look at the wine cellar and the question of when to drink which wines. How long do wines keep?
Gerges: To clear up one myth right off the bat: it’s not true that the older a wine is, the better it is. Sometimes the opposite is actually the case. A great deal has changed in winemaking in recent years. In the past, many wines needed a lot of time in the bottle before they could be drunk with pleasure. Today, on the other hand, winemakers usually produce wines that can already be drunk very well when young.

So which wines can and should be aged in the cellar?
Gerges: Unfortunately, you can’t generalize about that. But one thing is essential: you have to have a good cellar. Sunlight, heat, or a cellar that is too dry will kill even the best and most expensive wine. On the other hand, even an inexpensive wine will mature for several years in a cool, damp, and dark room without any problems.

Finally, something of an impudent question: suppose you can only drink one wine, no matter what’s on the table. Which grape variety do you choose?
Gerges: Hmm, hard to say. Although I think if I really had to choose, it would be a Pinot Noir. But I hope that I never have to make that decision!